News from Rawlins

After a long chat last night Paul has decided to withdraw from this race. He has been suffering every day since the start but has still managed to complete 0ver 1400 miles in less than 10 days and I have no doubt he could struggle through to the finish if he had enough time. However this seems pointless as he is not able to enjoy the ride as he would want! He has achieved an experience of the trail and learnt a lot and can always compete again next year when he is not battling sickness as well as everything else! I know he is a little disappointed but there are plenty more challenges out there!!
He plans to try to visit Scott and then return here to Atlanta to prepare for his trip to the UK next week!!

Day 10 - Father's Day and McIlroy wins the US Open

Woke up in my bivvy this morning - it was great - I was nice and warm and not at all wet! I woke at about 7.30 am and as I was so cosy decided to stay in a little longer - but about 5 minutes later it started to rain. I was going to try to wait it out but eventually got up at about 8am with it still raining a little - bit of a nuisance trying to pack away wet things! But all was well. Had some cold pizza for breakfast - really missed the ice on my ankles and the shower for my saddle sores - a baby wipe shower is not quite the same!! Riding was a bit slow but at least there was a tailwind. The trail turned east then south, then east then south and so every now and then would turn into a cross wind for a while. Really rolling hills again but no climbing today really. Scenery is amazing! A huge basin where you can see for miles and miles - huge mountains in the distance! But it seemed to be taking me a long time to cover the miles. The road got a bit sandy and I was slipping around a bit - some of the small downs were a bit scary!! But I carried on and reached a supposed reservoir - although I didnt see any water (and I was getting a bit low) Then the trail headed south into a bit of a wind for a while and then east on to a paved road with a tail wind - so that was good! It was the loneliest paved road I had ever been on - not a single car for about 20/30 miles. Then I reached a busier highway with cars (which I'd seen from about 10 miles back!) then a nasty little climb and across the basin towards Rawlins. It was now beginning to rain heavier and I was pretty much out of food and water. I needed to get there - also had the added incentive that I wanted to watch the final few holes of the US Open!! Finally rolled in to Rawlins - was going to stop at the first motel but it looked as though it was going to fall down - so I carried on to something decent looking with a name that I recognised - a Travel Lodge! Got myself a room and a shower!! Also managed to see the final three holes and McIlroy win the golf!! Ordered a pizza and am ready for bed!!

I need to evaluate this trip and what I am doing! I have to be in the UK the end of next week so have a fairly tight schedule even if things were going better. I have cycled 1400 miles in 9 1/2 days despite having felt ill since Day 1 so to be honest am not enjoying the trip as I had hoped - I always knew it might be more a training trip than anything else and I have certainly learnt a lot!! It is an amazing trail and challenge!! I think I just have to decide how much more I can get out of it by continuing!!

Day 9 - A Night in my Bivi Bag

After a good long sleep in Pinedale I enjoyed a very lazy start - after breakfast I wrapped up last night's remaining pizza to take along with me for later!! Heading out to cross the Basin I knew there would be long stretches with no extra food or water available. My plan was an 85 mile ride to Atlantic City - get there nice and early and stock up again for the next section. Anyway - that was my plan!! Left Pinedale and rode the few miles to Boulder where there were supplies - then headed off into the basin - after about 20 miles reached a sandy road - rolling hills as far as you can see - the Teton Mountains off to the left hand side - amazing views and cattle everywhere. Slowly climbing up towards the Divide - bit of a tailwind for a change which is nice! The trail ran along the top for a while before hitting a paved road and slightly steeper hills. Then I went down into South Pass City - an old Gold mining town with supposedly a supermarket but I didn't see it!! I was relieved to reach Atlantic City nice and early - thinking it would be good to rest here. I passed a run down B & B and then found Dave and a few others in the restaurant just down the road - they tell me the B& B is indeed closed - some of them have managed to find a room for the night - one guy is going to continue. So what to do? the lady there offers me her wig wam to camp in but I think if I am going to do that I might as well travel a bit further so i am closer to supplies for tomorrow's ride. So I continued - its kind of easy riding aa it is quite beautiful but still kind of tough going. So i stocked up with sandwiches, drinks and chocolate bars and headed out. It was an easy enough ride with a good wind to help me on my way - I plodded along for another 20 miles before needing to get my night light out and had something to eat. Finally at midnight I decided to stop and camp for the night - I pulled over to the side of the road where I had seen a group of bushes about 2 feet high. I found a gap, positioned my bike and got myself ready. Took my shoes off and stood on a cactus - the only one in sight!! Just where I planned to sleep - ended up having to dig it out as it really was in the best place for shelter - I was afraid I had popped my bike tyres!! Anyway I made my little bed - cosy but eerie - lots of strange animal noises around! But I got comfy and slept pretty good - woke up a few times but not too bad!!

Day 8 Pizza and Golf!

Got up early this morning and had a breakfast burrito at the supermarket. It was still dark when I left and I was finding it difficult to even keep my eyes open. Along a really nice flat bike path - but even so was really struggling after yesterday. Did about 10 miles and then stopped at a petrol station for coffee and a muffin and then carried on again practically falling asleep while riding! After another 10 miles I stopped again for coffee and hash browns and finally managed to get myself going a little bit! The path zig zagged back and forth until we got on to the highway and started one hell of a climb over the Teton Pass towards Jackson Hole. Finally reached the top and put all my clothes on as I was freezing - really think I must be ill today as I had all my clothes on and was still cold whereas other people seemed to be wearing a lot less quite comfortably. There was a good downhill though to a village with a bike shop where I bought myself some warmer socks! They were really nice in there - I needed some chain lube which they just gave to me which was really kind of them! Then I carried on to Jackson. My bum is really killing me - I got the saddle sores a few days ago when we hiked through the snow and have been suffering ever since! I have tried all sorts - even nappy rash cream. Today I decided to buy some hemorrhoid ointment - we used it in Africa and it seemed to be pretty good. So did that in Jackson and then went to McDonalds. For a long time I was umming and ahhing as to whether to stay in Jackson and find a hotel there but I decided that would just put me too far behind. Really took a lot to persuade myself to get back on the bike and continue but I finally did. I was really slow again - the bike path went alongside the highway with great views over the river and then it turned away from the major river to another as we started a very slow climb, traveling alongside the river the whole time. Sore throat, feeling sick, struggling to ride - what a state I am!! Finally after about 30 miles I reached the top - another very gradual downhill - couldn't get up any speed and had to pedal hard still. The scenery was great though - great plains as far as you could see dotted with a few meandering hills. Struggled through as best I could and managed 125 miles in the end. Found a hotel here and have just had pizza delivered - have just been watching the golf with Rory McIlroy and am ready to go to sleep. Tomorrow is going to be a short day - about 85 miles which should give me a chance to have a good rest. Am trying to arrange things to avoid camping as I don't thinking will do my cold any good - it was literally 0 degrees earlier today. I am not going to set an alarm tonight - just let myself sleep and see when I wake up! Good night!!

Day 7 to Tetona

Yesterday I planned to do 100 miles from Lima - got there nice and early and so had an early night. Which meant I could have an early start today after a good nights sleep. I also managed to do some laundry, ate in the restaurant across the road where they also made me some sandwiches for today. I eventually left at about 3 am. Headed up into a basin - absolutely nothing there. It was really difficult to get going. There was a dirt road that slowly meandered up through this basin - slowly going and going. Finally the sun came up which warmed me up a little. Made it to Lake View meeting a couple on a tandem coming the other way- had a chat with them and began to feel slightly better and got going a bit more. Finally made it to the Divide but there was a false top - went down and then climbed up again - then down again. It was a very gradual climb up and then down - with that headwind still - bit of a pain. Pretty hard work. On the other side on the way down was a big lake - pretty nice area. Then off into the woods for a bit before popping out where I found a restaurant and ordered a spaghetti bolognese - although I struggled to eat only a little. I was fed up with myself so left. I thought I had about 30 miles or so to Maryville as I was planning on only 100 again today. I had a 5 hour energy drink in the hope it would perk me up! The trail was completely flat but along an old railway track - seriously the worst ride ever - about 2 inches of soft gravel in the railway bed - and you just couldn't go fast. It just seemed so pointless as there were lots of once gravel roads off to the side. I was so angry. This was not fun - made it a miserable ride. I was so angry this actually got me going a little bit. When we left the railway it was really nice - after about 25 miles that was. There was now a great track down by the river - really fun. Great views across the river so I just flew down. This was then where the trail left the main route for the last of the detours. I thought we went closer to Ashdown and Maryville but I got that wrong when I was figuring it out. Actually turned on to what was like a snowmobile trail so I thought "OK I'll keep going" there was another place to stop in about 10 miles. However I couldn't find anywhere there - tried to look at google maps but didn't have a signal so in the end as I was feeling pretty good I decided to carry on. I was pedaling well and in the end made it all the way to Tetona - about 155 miles - a really good day, which I hadn't expected. I got myself a room, got changed and then it hit me. I had pedalled way too hard, too long. Both ankles were swollen and my knees were killing. Walked over to the restaurant and felt awful! Had a bite to eat and went to bed!

Day 6 to Lima

Already decided to only do 100 miles today. When I went to bed I was thinking of getting up early but had a really bad night coughing. Felt really sorry for Parker and the other guys! When they left there was no way I was ready to go get up with them so decided to try and get some extra sleep before heading out. I already had some sandwiches prepared the night before.
After breakfast I eventually set off - 100 miles to Lima and absolutely nothing along the trail. There was a nice downhill to start off then just massive open plains. Then basic all I cycled upstream along the river - a nice gravel road. There was cattle ranch after cattle ranch, but constantly uphill - seemed to go on forever - about 50 miles uphill with headwind all the time! Lots of animals - elk, deer etc. Also various rodent like creatures - possums as well. Finally thought I was at the top - but there was a quick little down before we started to climb again. I couldn't believe it! But actually it wasn't too bad - long hills across the tops - rewarded by unbelievable views. Big valley full of mountains with the snow peaked tops in the distance! I did take a photo! Finally got to the down - however it was so gradual and in to the headwind it was still hard work and had to pedal hard for about 20 miles. Made it to Lima nice and early and have already eaten - actually felt good after eating for the first time. Knees a bit swollen so I am putting some ice on it and then going to bed!

Day 5 to Butte - Part 2

Had my picnic and then headed off! Turned off on to a road headed up the valley - I could see the trail ahead of me snaking up the valley. There was a good headwind - a real pain in the ass! Slowly crept along with the road getting steeper and steeper - one he'll of a zig zagging road going up. The last section was super steep - snowy, muddy and boggy! Ended up having to walk. Finally got to the top - it was really high - pretty cool! The other side was totally insane - like riding down a ski slope. I think that's one of the trails the book said you would have to walk done - but anyway I rode! It was fun - super step - but it meant that despite all that effort to get up you couldn't then actually go that fast then going down - you had to be careful and brake a lot - it was just too steep! After reaching the bottom The trail continued to wind along - I was really worried at this stage that I wouldn't get to the Post Office in Wise River in time to collect my parcel - it closed at 4.45pm. That climb took so long - but I got there at 4.30 so all was well. I sent my old maps, passport and broken pedals home and then had a bite to eat! Although I had felt awful in the morning I had gelt a lot better in the climb - kit was still early so I decided to press on and was confident I could make Elkhorn Springs in good time. Another 30 miles. So I headed off on a paved road - but one that climbed steadily for 23 miles - getting steeper and steeper as it went. There was a serious headwind at the beginning although much better when I reached the shelter of the trees thank goodness!
But I was just firing and by now totally fed up - was this climb ever going to end? At 23 miles I reached the top and then the trail went up and down for another couple of miles. "When is it going to descend ?" I kept thinking. Finally the down was pretty good - by then it was freezing - I was wearing all my clothes again. The hotels in Elkhorn were full but I was directed to another place s down the road - so I carried on and met up with four guys I have been zig zagging along with - two from Athens, Georgia and two from Crested Butte!! We ended up sharing a room together!

Day 5 to Butte - Part 1

Stayed in the B &B and when I woke this morning the nice lady had left coffee and cereal all ready for me! Which was really nice of her. I tried to eat some cereal but didn't really feel up to it. It was freezing so I was wearing all my clothes - which made my bike nice and light! That was kind of good - I really needed that help as I struggled like he'll on the road. Went along the highway for a bitten took off and followed an old train track - it was a fairly good climb but really sandy and into a headwind. Went through a tunnel and then stopped and tried to eat a sandwich - but I felt so bad. Ended up on a road running parallel to the highway - flat and straight and boring with a headwind - everything I hate! Then back on to the highway for a downhill to Butte - but I was so cold - shivering like crazy! As soon as I arrived in Butte I headed for Arby's - but struggled to eat and just felt really miserable! My bum is killing - saddle sores are really hurting today! Went to K Mart and stocked up with cream, Advil, cough medicine, plasters etc etc - all sorts of junk! Continued on - the ride was great with the most amazing views andI felt a little better - the climb was gradual and I finally got to the top of the pass - the views were so wonderful! From there was a series of short drops followed by short climbs - the annoying thing I was having to take my clothes on and off each time and that is something I am quite slow at. I always seem to be stopping to drink, eat or add or remove clothes - and that's when everyone seems to overtake me again! Never mind - at least I get a rest every time I stop! I have just now come down a great downhill really fast - it wad really good fun. I am just having a rest Anne a sandwich in a field at the bottom!

Website Update

Yes - I know it is annoying but with our website manager in Arusha it is proving difficult to get a good enough connection for the time it takes to publish the changes!! Will speak to Matthew again and see what arrangements we can make!!

SPOT

Paul has ordered a replacement rental tracker which hopefully he will pick up in Lima tomorrow. He is going to try to get some more batteries for his one and see if he can get at least a few signals out today but otherwise we will have to rely on his texts and tweets as to where he is!!

Day 4 - June 13

Got up early this morning - about 4.30 am and left and rode not too far to Ovando - via a good climb and downhill! There were three other guys there - one who is doing the ITT (so left a little earlier than the race) and two from Crested Butte. I was feeling pretty good so I carried on to Lincoln where I ate again and phoned through about my faulty SPOT unit. Not only have the batteries died completely twice (they are supposed to last 7 - 14 days!) but it had also been placing me in some weird places!! From there it was one hell of a climb - really steep. In Helena I found a bike shop. My pedals had been really sticking so I replaced them along with a worn chain. It was good to have a bit of a breather in Helena and I was even thinking I might make it to Basin at a decent hour this evening - before 10 - and was quite excited about the prospect!! But ........... the trail was OK for a while but then we just seemed to climb and climb until it was so steep it would have been great to ski down. Took ages - hiking for a couple of hours to go a couple of miles!! It was freezing at the top and so i put all my clothes on. But at least I was rewarded with an awesome downhill - even in the dark!! Took us out on the main road with only 5 miles to Basin where there was a bar!! The lady there was great and phoned through to a B & B just down the road where they had sandwiches waiting for me when I arrived!! Thats where I am now!!
Did I mention I saw a black bear and a grizzly???

Day 3 - to Seeley Lake

Stayed in a Super 8 last night - woke up feeling really awful. Rode to Columbia Falls where I found some other guys waiting for the petrol station to open at 7am. But I carried on to see if there was another one - I was in search of bananas. Actually found a 24 hour supermarket - which was great - I was able to stock up. I was riding super slow - sore throat, headache - the works! Trust me to have a cold for the start of this race - its why I got behind on the first day and am having to play catch up!! Ate the bananas and had a coffee - those bananas really seemed to do the trick - rode 40 miles to Swan River - pulled over and had a great breakfast of French toast and really felt a lot better!! Didnt see much at Ferndale so carried on - there was not much in the way of food for a while so I was eating bars. It was a nice Forest trail. Finally ended up on the road and looking for food. I was told about Holland Lake Lodge - so went there and had a great chicken pot pie - looked a great place to stay overlooking the lake (nice to go back one day!!) I wanted to try to get to Seeley Lake. But it was a nightmare of a journey - my GPS sent me in to a field and the cues didnt seem to be making sense. Fortunately a guy came by who had ridden last year and so i rode with him for a while. We went up through a terrible single track in the middle of nowhere - quite a climb but eventually came back to the main road. Ended up at Seeley Lake but much later than I had hoped - again!! Found a bar with a motel attached and the guy cooked me a pizza. Off to bed!

Update from Paul

Tracker seems to have given up for a while and went a bit haywire on Day 2 - the one on the website is probably the more accurate!! Had a short text message from Paul at about 1am (his time) today saying he was OK but needed to recharge his phone. Hopefully more news later when the tracker starts again and he sets off for the day!

Day 2 - to White Fish

Woke up early at around 5am, packed up quickly and left! Had a really good morning even though we got a bit lost for a while. Didnt really know where we were! Fairly good gravle/tarmac roads. The day was going really well and I was able to go faster than I had hoped. Still not feeling so good stomach wise. But my legs feel good. Crossed the border into America and then found a Subway about 10 miles later for lunch. I realised there wasn't much else along the path for a while but actually found a little shop at about 111miles. I knew we were going up now and would cross the Continental Divide and that there woul dbe a little snow - but there turned out to be a LOT!! Ended up hiking 9 miles through the snow - probably took about 4 hours - a bit of a nightmare! After that it was beginning to get dark and I still had about 15 miles to White Fish Finally arrived here about 11.30 - so am just eating before going off to bed. That was one hell of a hard day! I did see deer and elk - no bears!! At one point riding down the last bit I could feel myself falling asleep on the bike - one hell of a long day! 16 hours with the bike to go about 155 miles!! Have to get up in about 4 1/2 hours time to do it all again!! Good night

Day 1 Continued - to Sparwood

After I sent the last message I ate and left at about 9pm to do the last 30 miles. There was a petty big climb and then some off road - pretty good though - used my new night light. Saw some moose which was pretty cool. Then I cam round a corner and thought I saw a bear in a field, followed by another one - but then I realised they were just cows!! Finally made it to town, ate and got to bed around midnight!

First Day - Elkford - June 10

Its pretty late at night but I am just going to eat and then continue for the day.
Have had a really hard day. Left with Tori this morning and after about 10 miles my bottle holder under my seat came off - so I had to stop to sort it out. The first 50 miles was quite a difficult ascent with a little snow. Then there was a great bike path to about 60m. There was a small store so I had a tin of cold ravioli - then we hit the snow and hiked for about 5 miles uphill. Then a good down and a good gravel rd to about 110 m. Saw a wolf and a deer - followed later by more deer!! Had a bad stomach all morning which I was a bit worried about - but felt better after about 74miles.
More updates as and when

All ready

No internet access here in Canada - but at least my phone is working! Just having breakfast with Tori - bikes all packed and ready. there are other riders with bikes full of gear all over the place. I just want to get going. Now!!

Tracker

As you can see from the map above Paul was testing his SPOT tracker from here in Roswell yesterday. Tomorrow we should be able to track his progress and from the Tour Divide website link we will be able to see where all the riders are!

Click below to see how it works:

Leaderboard

On My Way

...... to Banff. Excited about tomorrow's start. Has all been a bit hectic trying to get everything ready in time - bike was only ready yesterday and I have had to incorporate all the new detours into my planning! Fingers crossed it all works! Can tweet from my new phone - depending on the signal of course - and you should be able to follow my progress via SPOT tracker (along with the other riders!) Hopefully Matthew will get a chance from Arusha, Tanzania to update my website with the correct links etc. - but please be patient - I know only too well how difficult it is to find a decent internet connection capable of such a heavy task in that part of the world! Apart from that I am just looking forward to being back on my bike (first time since Cape Town) and catching up with Tori. Hope you are able to come long for the ride!!